The Black Lives Matter movement is accelerating transparency and accountability in all industries, but of particular note is the effect it is having on the beauty industry. Beauty is a $532 billion industry and one of the fastest growing industries in the world. It is an industry which spans all demographics, however it has recently come under public criticism for being more accepting of the white demographic than the black demographic. For decades, the beauty industry has (willingly or not) dictated what is beautiful and what is not, creating an “ideal” for beauty. This is clearly problematic where skin colour is concerned. The Black Lives Matter movement has helped to increase awareness of “whitewashing” in the beauty industry and is fast-tracking real and lasting changes.

Consumers

We are in an age of transparency and choice, where consumers are able to select the brands who align with their own values and publicly challenge those who do not. Value-driven consumers demand that brands take a stand on social and political issues and expect them to make a positive contribution to society, focussing on what matters not what sells. Larger brands in particular are seen as platforms which are able to amplify marginalised voices and have the power to create change. In the wake of the killing of George Floyd on 25 May 2020, a wave of consumers have publicly called out brands who have not utilised their power to share statements of solidarity, education and guidance, and commitments to change.

Brands can engage with value-driven consumers by embracing the political space and having a voice. Consumers are willing brands to share their journey with them and to admit where they may have gone wrong in the past and to disclose initiatives for the future.

Products

One of the issues highlighted by consumers is the prevalence of products which idealise certain ethnic characteristics, such as hair straighteners, skin lighteners and shades of “nude” makeup (which are generally only nude for white consumers).

The backlash has included petitions against skin lightening products, claiming that they “tell us that there is something wrong with one colour, that we have to be light in order to feel beautiful”. This has successfully resulted in brands such as Johnson & Johnson discontinuing their skin lightening products.

Another issue is the accessibility of darker shades of make-up. Rihanna’s beauty brand, Fenty Beauty, was one of the first to address this in 2017 when it released 40 foundation shades. 40 shades has since become a benchmark across the industry, but has been criticised as simply being a fad where not accompanied with other initiatives. Sam Fine, make-up artist for Naomi Campbell stated:

We’re stuck in a place that is politically correct. Let’s take it to a place that’s real and lasting. For example, every brand is launching 40 foundation colours now because it’s the trendy thing to do. But is the brand actually doing the work – the initiatives and outreach? It’s not just about putting a black model next to Gigi Hadid. The stock needs to be there, and not only 40 shades at your Times Square store. The people at the counter need training.

One brand which should be applauded for its approach is Space NK. On 9 June 2020, Space NK publicly committed to only displaying testers for brands who have designed their stands to include every shade, and to providing testers and stock for all complexion shades of the brands in every store.

Advertising and marketing

Even where products reflect diversity, they need to be advertised and marketed sufficiently in order to ensure they have real outreach. For example, having a product line of 40 shades is meaningless if the only models and bloggers which feature in the campaigns are white.

The naming of products has also been criticised for giving foundations for black people names of food (e.g. “chocolate”, “caramel”, “mocha” and “coffee”), whereas lighter shades tend to be “porcelain”, “ivory” or “nude”. Last year, Fenty Beauty pulled its highlighter named “Geisha Chic” after criticism of cultural appropriation. More recently, Unilever announced that it would be renaming its melanin-suppressing cream from “Fair & Lovely” to “Glow & Lovely”. Similarly, L’Oreal has committed to removing the words “white/whitening, fair/fairness, light/lightening” from its products.

Recruitment

The simple premise being demanded by many is that the workforce should reflect the customer base and, if it doesn’t, then companies should actively undertake recruitment diversification. This is not just in physical stores, but in the creative stages too. Diverse teams can ensure that product developers are able to address issues which might not otherwise be appreciated (such as textures and tones), and marketers will be more successful where they are as diverse as the audiences they are trying to reach.

Consumers are also pushing for transparency. One example of this is the campaign @pullupforchange and hashtag #pulluporshutup, created by Sharon Chuter, CEO of UOMA Beauty. Chuter is challenging beauty brands to reveal black representation within their companies, encouraging followers to speak with their wallets and withhold purchases until information is disclosed. Many big brands have risen to the challenge and published their results: L’Oreal revealed that 9% of its employees were black, Estee Lauder 12%, Shisheido 10% and Glossier 9%. Chuter proposes that the benchmark should be 10%, in line with the percentage of black college graduates in America.

Many brands are also recognising that they need to do more and are publicly sharing their initiatives for the future. Charlotte Tilbury, for example, has committed to developing an apprentice program that provides employment opportunities to underrepresented minorities, offering mentorship and resources to help improve job prospects.

What next?

2020 so far has been a period of reflection, resilience and rectification. Now comes the more challenging part: taking action. Consumers will be closely watching to determine whether brands are actually as inclusive as they would like consumers to believe, and will be sure to hold brands accountable where they fall short.

Brands must therefore commit to long-term change and see diversity as key to the business, not just fuel for marketing. Where consumers share their values, brands will achieve loyalty.

Steps you can take to help ensure your beauty brand is truly an ally in the Black Lives Matter Movement:

• Be open, honest and realistic with consumers – share your past mistakes and future initiatives;
• Create products which are accessible to a more diverse customer base;
• Ensure all product ranges are available in store;
• Ensure staff are trained to match all skin tones;
• Ensure product names cannot be scrutinised;
• Employ more diverse teams in all aspects of the business; and
• Appoint a diversity & inclusion role.

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